It is a bit different then most fashion contests as it has the environment in mind as well as it’s specific costumer base. I asked the Founder, Christina Getachew and Designers Emily Stockwell, Kevin Kerr including myself to answer a few questions to explain their view points and experience.
From Christina Getachew, founder of Substance for the Fashion Conscious People.
Q. What is the concept of the Aspiring designer Contest?
A. The concept for the Aspiring Designer Contest developed from our mission to open up the creative process and allow visitors to see, feel and appreciate all the work that goes into fashion design. We love the art behind fashion and have realized a great way to promote our passion is to share our appreciation for the process.
Q. How did you come up with the idea for doing this contest?
A. Every month since we opened in March of '06 we create a collection similar to the one our contest finalists are charged with creating. Since we work in the store front, the season for giving presents a challenge for us to get the December collection done in-house with higher foot traffic and more receipts of new inventory for all the shoppers. We've turned the challenge into an opportunity to showcase aspiring designers in our store front and website thru the contest.
Q. What materials are given to the contestants?
A. The materials given to the contestants this year were forty 100% cotton short sleeve tees. Last year the contestants were given an assortment of discontinued apparel and accessories. They were asked to repurpose the material in creating their own 4 piece collection.
Q. On average how many people do you get to apply for this, and do you want it to be more localized or national?
A. We opened up the application to artists nationwide and will continue to do so every year. This year we had approximately 20 qualified applicants from across the country. We selected the best of the bunch and it just so happens that all three finalists reside here. Our winner last year was from Boston so we're not tied to making this a local talent competition.
Q. What criteria are you looking for from the designers that helps you select them as a finalist?
A. Skill in pattern making and garment construction are very important because all three finalists designs will be made available for sale in our store front. They must show proof that they are able to produce high quality, wearable designs. The finalists also communicate a shared desire to produce compelling fashion design with an environmentally approach. They write a few words about this desire in their applications. We require that at least 80% of their designs produced for the competition be made from repurposing existing material and not from newly purchased fabric.
Q. What are some of your goals for the contest?
A. We know the contestants work very hard to produce the winning garments so first and foremost, we want to see them garner recognition for their efforts. We'd also like to gain more recognition for being a business that sells fabulous sustainable fashion design and supports talented new designers.
Q. Are there any last words for our readers?
A. Columbus clearly is becoming a fashion hub. It's no coincidence that all three finalists this year are local talent from a pool of applicants including from designers trained at Parsons and FIT in NYC.
From the Designers
Kevin Kerr, Esther Chung and Emily Stockwell
Where did you hear about the contest?
KK. A friend of mine that is a customer of Substance told me about it. She was also the one that told me about Highball Halloween.
EC. My friend Jessica Page had sent me an e.mail which referred me to this opportunity.
ES. I heard about the contest through my friend and (boss at the time) Esther Chung
What inspired you to enter?
KK. I love to have the opportunity to design things with a challenge. It makes my brain work harder. I always end up with so many ideas that it improves my other design work.
EC. I’ve been struggling to put myself out there as a designer and as I read I guidelines I felt this was a perfect fit with my deconstruction abilities. How could I not enter it?
ES. My love of sewing and creating inspired me to enter. Also, I love the idea of recycled fashion...and not knowing ahead of time what we were going to be given to create our collection really intrigued me!
What did you put in your application for the ideas to make clothing more eco-friendly?
KK. I wrote about a small thing that is easy to implement for any company. Being a responsible company in the design development areas. Lots of resources are wasted in product development. Fabrics or samples contracted for before a direction is settled upon etc.. Shipping back and forth from design studio to contractor that might not be necessary. Lots of little thing that can add up to waste.
EC. In my essay I was very moved to talk about how major brands especially here in Columbus with Abercrombie, The Limited, and Express should take better care of being eco-friendly having their base operations in the midwest. Also since they have the budget they can afford to go the extra mile and spend the money on making more sustainable clothes with better quality to last rather then the next hot fast trend that won’t last the year. I also talked about my personal feelings how clothes should be from more natural materials and it’s ok for them to get worn out (not fall apart) because it all plays into the natural cycle of the environment.
ES. In my application, I stated that eco-friendly clothing can really be obtained by anyone by just making their old clothes into something new. For example, a skirt could be cut up the middle and hemmed on both sides to create a cape like wrap, or a company could take clothes that didn't sell from last season and add new buttons or extra fabric to make the piece something new that would sell.
Did you find it challenging to work with 40 black t-shirts as raw materials? Were you expecting other items to work with?
KK. I think the lack of color was the only thing that kind of threw me. I didn't have any idea what we were going to get so the tee shirts were fine.
EC. I was definitely thinking that we would receive some more random elements like some old leather purses or oddball colored garments that didn’t sell. It was a bit of a challenge for me to decide which direction to go because it was essentially a blank black canvas to use.
ES. At first, it was a bit challenging to work with the black t-shirts but once I found out that they bleached and dyed pretty decently things got easier to deal with. I wanted to create pieces that were comfortable, but didn't look like they had been made out of knit t-shirt material. I was expecting a variety of items to work with, but i think it was good we got plain t-shirts because all of the contestants seemed to interpret them in different ways.
Tell us a bit about your process, did you sketch first with a clear idea in mind? Did you cut it all up and work from the pieces? Did you have patterns you used at all?
KK. I did start with some vague ideas about what I wanted to do. Working with the raw materials is what I find the most compelling. They kind of inspire me as to what I can do or not. My design kept changing as I worked with the materials. I love all the little things to add to the eco friendliness of the project.
EC. I am personally not very good at 2D thinking so there was very little sketching involved. At first I just picked out a shirt and put it on the mannequin and stared for a good long time. Then I took scissors and went at it to see what I came up with, I tried bleaching out also but that didn’t suit me. Eventually it came to me and I got the base of all the outfits done in one day but the embellishments are what took the time. Every single disc was hand made and hand sewn together, at one point I took my mannequin off the stand and sat with her between my legs an entire day hand sewing each piece. I did use some home drafted patterns to get the fits for the sleeves.
ES. My process was sort of drawn out and a bit more lengthy than i would have liked. I started the whole process by collecting inspiration. The four elements of the world (earth, fire, water, and air) are what I chose for inspiration for each piece. I then sketched out some ideas using pictures of inspiration and keeping each element in mind. At first, I was afraid to cut the t-shirts so I did lots of experimenting with t-shirts of my own before I started with Substance's materials. I did not use patterns for any of my stuff....the shape of the t-shirts themselves guided me in the process so shaping everything was pretty easy for me to do.
Is there anything else you would like to add about the competition?
KK. I love that in Columbus Ohio we have a community retailers and clients that supports local designers and the idea that fashion does not have to start in Paris or New York.
EC. It was a wonderful experience and I commend Substance for taking such care into their clothing and it’s impact on the environment. If given the opportunity I would be happy to participate again.
ES. The black t-shirts were intimidating at first, but once I starting sewing and actually seeing my progress I got really excited.
In conclusion of the evening the winner was Mr. Kevin Kerr. Emily Stockwell also made the first sale from the garment unveiling to the owner Christina Getachew.
-Esther Chung
Fashion Arts Editor
